Quirpon Island feels like the end of the world, I think as I stand on a ragged cliff, gazing out to sea on this island found on the tip of Newfoundland’s Great Northern Peninsula. I’m watching a dozen humpback whales feed and play just offshore. Northern gannets circle the whales, shrieking and diving like arrows into the frothy surf. Scanning the horizon, I see the ghostly apparition of a massive iceberg. This magical moment has me feeling like I have stumbled into one of those eye-popping Newfoundland and Labrador commercials.