Fore on the Shore – Alabama’s Gulf Coast – by Dave Finn
Gulf Shores AL – Walking through the doors of our condo at Kiva Dunes Golf Resort, I caught my first stunning glimpse of Mobile Bay. Hurriedly I dropped my bags and headed for the balcony to catch a better view when I noticed a tall silhouette perched on our railing. At first I thought it was a statue but upon closer inspection realized that this regal four foot bird was no pale imitation but a legendary Great Blue Heron. So calm, graceful and fearless was this magnificent creature that he remained perfectly still as I gently slid the door open to snap a close-up.
Native Americans recognize the heron as an expert hunter and believe seeing one is an omen that the hunt will be good. As I gazed across the 18th fairway, I knew that with my new avian friend “Kiva” as my guide, it was going to be a great week exploring 32 miles of uncrowded sugar-white beaches, a thriving culinary scene and seven of the best golf courses in the South.
Gulf Shores Golf Club is the elder statesman of the area, built in the 60’s and updated in 2005 by the renowned father and son team of Jay and Carter Morrish. They say you only get one chance to make a good first impression, so let me tell as you as we drove through the entrance gate and alighted in front of the stately, two storey plantation-style clubhouse, I was impressed.
Pro-shop Manager Wayne Taylor forewarned us that the course plays longer than the scorecard indicates because of a couple of short par 4’s and the five par 3’s and he was right. This 18-hole par 71 has private club conditioning with a mature tree-lined parkland feel to go along with relatively flat generous fairways and short rough for ease of play. But don’t be fooled since water comes in to play on twelve holes and there are a number of strategically placed trees and deep soft sand bunkers.
My most memorable hole had to be the 4th, a long par 3 over a daunting pond edged by a wooden retaining wall, not only because that was my first par of the day but also because that’s where I spotted my first alligator.
Feeling parched and a wee bit peckish, we hit The Gulf, a funky eatery on the eastern shore built from reclaimed shipping containers that have been stacked and assembled to create a casual indoor-outdoor dining experience. The chalkboard menu changes daily based on the local catch, offering up food-truck style dishes like peel and eat shrimps, grilled Mahi-Mahi tacos and my favourite, a lightly breaded fried grouper sandwich with homemade dill sauce, on a toasted brioche bun.
The next morning we were off to Craft Farms Golf Resort which has two 18-hole championship courses designed by the late, great Arnold Palmer. Cotton Creek opened in 1987 and Cypress Bend, which we played, followed in 1993. It’s a beautifully manicured course with wide fairways that meander through live oak and towering pine groves with water evident on every hole. Positioning and accuracy are much more important than distance here. You can score well on some holes but I found that the Par 5’s ate me up. With two birdies and six double bogies, I had my roller-coaster ride for the week without hitting any theme parks!
When you crave a great steak, Nolan’s Restaurant and Lounge is sure to please. After settling in on the outdoor screened-in patio, I was soon feasting on a piece of mouth-watering tenderloin but my personal highlight of the evening was meeting Mayor Robert Craft who regaled us with tales of how his father J.C., a local farmer, had a vision for turning the Gulf Coast into a golf destination and how J.C. convinced Palmer Management to design and build both courses. It was inspiring to listen as he painted a picture of how his father and Arnold became friends over the years and together made one man’s dream come true.
Finally it was time to play the Kiva Dunes Golf Club . I’d been teased long enough by the view from my balcony of the course that when it opened in 1995 was rated the #2 Best New Public Courses in the U.S by Golf Digest and still ranks as one of the finest in Alabama today. This superb Jerry Pate links-style layout offers plenty of forced carries over sand dunes, lakes and natural wildland areas so play from the right tee blocks or you will pay the price. While I may choose not to remember my score, I will remember walking up on 18th and seeing the reflection of the clubhouse lodge radiating across the pond, knowing that glorious view had been mine all week.
The Big Beach Brewery had just recently opened so we thought where better to watch the ALCS Championship game and enjoy a few pints? We were delighted when the owners, Jim and Julie Shamburger along with Brew Master Rod volunteered to give us a tour and passionately described how Jim’s ‘hobby’ had evolved into their new venture. I loved the Rod’s Reel Cream Ale and the Small Town Brown Ale and know, whatever your preference, one of their handcrafted brews will be sure to quench your thirst.
The Peninsula Golf & Racquet Club may be my favorite because it is so photogenic. Architect Earl Stone designed 27 holes around some thirty lakes that gracefully flow through live oaks, cypress and unspoiled natural terrain. The Lakes, Cypress and Marsh nines are all in immaculate condition featuring wider fairways, lots of tall natural grass and well defined water hazards on every hole. With a slope of 133 and a course rating of 74.7, you can play almost 7,200 yards from the tips or under 5,000 yards from the forward tees, whatever best suits your game.
We spent our last night at Flora-Bama Ole River Bar and Grill adjacent to a marina and perched over the water’s edge. Here Chef Mathew Brown serves up traditional Southern fare like fresh oysters, alligator gumbo, shrimp po’boy and a bread pudding baked with blueberries and white chocolate, drizzled with bourbon sauce that will leave you wanting more. If you want to catch some live music, across the street is the lively Flora-Bama Lounge & Oyster Bar. Don’t be deceived by ramshackle wooden exterior covered in graffiti and assorted ‘memorabilia’ hanging on the walls. Inside it is just as eclectic and fun, with a collection of bras adorning the bar. The perfect place to finish our week – with ‘style’!
I came to Orange Beach Alabama to conquer the links but quickly discovered that there is so much more to see and do, in addition to playing some exceptional golf.
The heron is a symbol of going with the flow, and working with the elements of Mother Nature rather than struggling against her. If you crave a more laid back golf vacation without the all-you-can-eat buffets, busy roads, and lost tourists then the Gulf Shores is definitely right for you. As the local motto goes “Leave Only Fingerprints” but you will definitely leave with fond memories of an outstanding golf destination and an appreciation for genuine Southern hospitality.
For more information on golf in Gulf Shores and Orange Beach visit www.gulfshores.com